Give Me the Jangs Why does so much “Korean” fine dining still feel so French?

 was this my Ratatouille moment? I was chilly, wet, and late for supper.  

I herniated my back this week after returning from Seoul.   

 Rains followed, reminding us that one meteorological disaster may cause infrastructure collapse.  

 HanG The subway was broken, so we got delayed in traffic.  awi 

 However, I arrived at Meju, Hooni Kim's cozy eight-seat chef's table in the back of Little Banchan Shop in Long Island City, just as the first course arrived,,,

 pale, custardy tofu with gochugaru, chives, and poached mangadak (shimeji) mushrooms.  

 The waiter then poured dwenjang-guk broth, a fermented soybean paste stew, which cleared my mind.  

 “Happy Chuseok,” Kim remarked as I sipped the copper-toned broth, earthy and dank with a refreshing minerality and spice.  

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